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Post by tjm on Nov 19, 2014 18:29:43 GMT -6
Only posible way to make water rise above 212F is in a presure vessel. Any thing in direct contact with that water will be at water temprature. High school stuff. Steel varies widely in what temps it reacts, but at minumum is above 350F to effect any kind of change. In general spring steel is tempered at the very highest temps. I believe that removing traps from boiling water and plunging them directly into ice water might create a very, very mild change of the jaws but have zero effect on springs. Zero.
As I said above, Wow! My dog has more/less fleas than yours.
Reason that we have more than one brand of anything is because some people like blue more than red etc. If I don't like Chevys I won't buy Chevys, you bought something you don't like trade it for something yo do like. Don't tell me I can't like it. I have the right to be stupid, as do you.
I have my personal preferances based on my experance and they will always be a little or alot different than anmyone else's simply because my experiance is mine alone everone else's is their's alone.
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Post by bigjohn on Nov 19, 2014 18:50:26 GMT -6
Very well put Trevis.
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Post by coonsnagger on Nov 19, 2014 19:35:23 GMT -6
True but my issue is with how long they last could be a week old trap...
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Post by robertw on Nov 19, 2014 20:35:28 GMT -6
Coonsnagger. Nope! Not a week old trap. Those traps were acquired in 2004 and 2005. These same traps have routinely seen action in 4-6 states each year and are used (buried in the dirt) at a minimum of 90 days a year.
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Post by adccoyote on Nov 19, 2014 20:36:38 GMT -6
Robert W sorry calling BS on the round versus sq jaw deal? it is not the design of the jaw in a trap, rather spring rate, pan tension, height of jaws etc. You thought process versus a circle being faster than a square has so little impact on catching a coyote in a trap well it is meaningless really. it sounds good on paper and in a test but in the end so many other factors play into catch efficiency , again that is real life trapping facts. I have used NW traps for years with modifications, then bridgers like saying a sterling mj600 is a poor trap because of the heavy cast jaws LOL. many prefer the old Montgomery's they are a sq jaw trap as well. jaw height and pan tension and enough spring rate to make them close fast enough. When a 30 lb coyote commits to a 3-4 lb pan not many are fast enough to with draw that paw before the jaw height gets them in a solid hold. laminations add rigidity to the factory jaws and a wider jaw displaces the power more equally over an area than a thin jawed trap. The key is too have the power to match the jaw nothing more really. I have used many traps for coyotes in my years and some of the very best are a so called sq jaw or miodifed sq jaw, what I do not like is what I call the egg shaped oval of the duke,victor style traps they loose jaw height and add width. I would like a more complete jaw that offers both height and width in a more closer uniformity. It have caught plenty of coyotes and The best trap tested in the BMP's to date on coyotes in ALL facets has been the Canadian modified Bridger 3 lowest injury scores and highest catch rate of any trap tested, not that means much but does match the many coyote trappers that seek out these types of traps for canines and cats. Both long legged critters. I won't charge you nothing to show you how to modify a Bridger 3 offset into a coyote catching machine.......... My loss rate or snapped to empty trap rate is so low well I can't remember the last time either has happened and many of some coyotes where done on 3 day checks in western SD. So your comment that laminations cost you critters is well off......... I had the good fortune of knowing Glen Sterling a super sharp guy on trap modification and manufacturing and would laugh at a comment that a thicker jawed trap will cost you critters. Here are some photos all taken on 3 day checks and are the norm not the rare hold of coyotes in such traps. I have many pictures showing the same thing on different coyotes. None of these can go anywhere and notice the levers on the bridgers some of these where years back prior to adding pit pans and more jaw thickness. My pans all had a field gun notch trigger for good pan tension, the a pit pans even made this a better trap! IMO It have had traps in the ground on some places year round on sheep ranchers. 2 feet due to jaw width and height being close to the same and notice how high the levers are on the OS traps years back when I used just 9 ga for lamination. This happens multiple times each year for me. I look for the levers to run very high, the paw deep in the jaws, less than 1/2 of one percent of snapped traps without a coyote in it. I have used many traps through the years and I have 100's of photos, the search for the perfect coyote trap has been a long one for me, and I have settled on the 3 Bridger full modified and Conners shock spring and chestnut ring to offer all the versatility I need in a trap and last and take abuse. The trap must also be able to have parts switched out easy enough and parts easy to get my hands on for multiple sources. I have pics of back foot catches and toe catches as well and settled on this as my coyote/cat trap of choice. I just wish I could order the coyote cuff jaws to pop into a Bridger frame! Would save time welding and grinding.
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Post by robertw on Nov 19, 2014 20:43:16 GMT -6
The BMPs are and always have bedn a disaster. Trap damage is more relevant to hours in the trap.
Round jawed traps MAKE ME MONEYS.
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Post by login on Nov 19, 2014 20:45:26 GMT -6
Haven't had a problem with my duke traps yet, and they are round jawed. Never seen one unset that didn't have something in them...
Altho I am the king of armchair experts, seems we have many more on this site as well. Dang, I got a lot of competition...
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Post by robertw on Nov 19, 2014 20:52:33 GMT -6
That Jake trap pictured is one of the most helpless traps on the market in adverse conditions. It can nog begin to compete with a round jawed 4 coiled #3 or #4.
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Post by login on Nov 19, 2014 21:00:15 GMT -6
Well hell, I will just move on...
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Post by tjm on Nov 19, 2014 21:04:53 GMT -6
Just curious, if I buy a chevy then put a Lincoln motor and a Ford rear in it, is it still a Chevy? Any thing can be modified, but then it is not the thing it was.
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Post by adccoyote on Nov 19, 2014 21:06:25 GMT -6
Robert I have caught coyotes in the winter and in heavy rains in gray gumbo in those jake traps. LOL. I choose not to,use them anymore for other reasons weather isn't one of them......... A guy I know that traps mainly in deeper than avg snow , catches a fair share of coyotes in those jake traps in very snowy conditions. Anyone is free to choose but to tell me what I use is inferior when I have the years and pictures to back up my claims holds little merit. If one chooses to run dukes fine or victors etc. I have my opinion based on many years experience as well and the photos well they are the proof of my pudding.
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Post by robertw on Nov 19, 2014 21:10:19 GMT -6
So what?? So have I, doesn't change the fact that the trap is helpless as heck compared to other commercially available traps.
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Post by adccoyote on Nov 19, 2014 21:18:24 GMT -6
I agree TJM not the same but generally people modify things to make them better at a cost savings, or why modify anything?
Some feel a factory trap is all they need great, I have seen the value to time and materials into making a decent trap far better again IMO.
I agree Robert trap damage is relative to a degree to length in trap and other factors, but I choose to build up bullet proof traps so less worries about bent dogs, bent spring pins etc. I know if I use a trap,on a 3 day check and it shows little to no damage it will run well on anything less as well.
I tend to be anal about things LOL. I always look for maximum efficiently be it my choice of traps, the snares In have built over the years or the calling rifle or e caller I choose to use. I want all of my equipment to be super efficient and to replicate things time,after time etc.
Choices are out there for reasons we can all choose what we think is best. The reason we still have so many choices, look how many DP traps are on the market............
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Post by coonsnagger on Nov 21, 2014 15:31:51 GMT -6
Alright I purchased 2 new 330s whole different batch. If they give me trouble I'm calling them and buying sleepy creek. I'll have alot less traps but I will know they work.
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Post by coonsnagger on Nov 21, 2014 15:33:35 GMT -6
And this is my first day setting traps... I'm a bit behind...
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Post by tomolson on Nov 21, 2014 16:18:09 GMT -6
Only 330s I had problems with are sleepy creeks.And I used to sell them,till I tried to use some of their 330s.Thei #11s were great,but not so the 330s. Tom
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Post by login on Nov 21, 2014 17:07:22 GMT -6
Alright I purchased 2 new 330s whole different batch. How do you know they are from a different batch? Aint like they have serial #'s on them.
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Post by coonsnagger on Nov 21, 2014 17:58:04 GMT -6
Alright I purchased 2 new 330s whole different batch. How do you know they are from a different batch? Aint like they have serial #'s on them. couple years to a year apart from a whOle different shipment. And I sell dukes. As was mentiined. I heard sleepy creeks were best. Any other alternatives people like?
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Post by tomolson on Nov 21, 2014 18:09:46 GMT -6
You hear a lot of things--and they ain't always true.Especially on the internet.Many times you need hip boots and a sifter to wade your way through the bull----. I have only 330d a few thousand beaver,so you can't take anything I say on 330s for gospel. Tom
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Post by tomolson on Nov 21, 2014 18:23:08 GMT -6
Snagger,you sell Dukes?? I find it very odd then,that you downgrade Dukes so bad,especially if you sell them Also as a seller of Dukes,you surely should be aware of Bill Dukes,very good customer service and his replacement of suspect traps. Tom
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