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Post by krank on Nov 11, 2014 19:38:57 GMT -6
My Duke 330's are just as strong as they were 5 years ago. Have to agree with bverboy about never too strong. Let an otter get suitcased in an "iffy" conibear and you may find him gone the next check. A 330 is one trap that can cook your goose in an accident and you could spend the night in one. Always carry a piece of rope. John-Them Duke 330s I got were the ones I sold you half of. I like my 1978 victors that I can set by hand and wont break my arm. |
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calvin
Junior Member
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Post by calvin on Nov 12, 2014 8:27:36 GMT -6
Just a note, if you, or anyone else here, are going to replace the #330s springs, the new Bridger #330 springs with the RK safeties work on every #330 I/ve tried. 4.95 each and seem to be holding up well so far. They have a smaller jaw eye that some don't like but it doesn't bother me at all.
Again, bet Duke would send you new springs, at least. They/d probably just send new traps. They good about that, in my experience.
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Post by otterfox7 on Nov 13, 2014 17:04:56 GMT -6
I'm in the s STL area too. Got traps 35 years old that still do the job. You need any help, I will be glad to help ya.
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Post by otterfox7 on Nov 13, 2014 17:10:04 GMT -6
Just thought of something else. How do you know they are no good? Did you get you hand or arm caught in them? That will surly tell ya!
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Post by adccoyote on Nov 13, 2014 17:29:46 GMT -6
One can tell by setting pressure how strong a trap is, if you really notice it it means the springs are not good. I have some high end traps that are 27 years old and feel almost as good if you pulled a new one out of a box. In this world we get what we pay for, everyone has to make a profit that comes after all input cost, some traps are cheaper because A made over seas, but that alone anymore is not where all the savings comes from, they do use cheaper metal that is just a fact. Not just springs but all other parts of a trap as well.
When you weld or grind on steel one can tell easy enough what quality it is. Different countries have different steel and what the maker wants and where their can be cost savings as a business person your going to listen. I once heard from a trap maker he had more cost in shipping than he did in the trap itself.
The market is there for people to choose price and. Quality and features of each trap. I wouldn't expect the cheapest on the market to last the longest. If they had high end carbon steel they have to cost more that simple, if your running cast jaws cost more due to labor and material that simple.
That said you can spend time and more money making them a better trap, no factory made trap IMO are ground ready. Love Bridger 3 traps they come with a base plate, nice offset, but from there they all get laminated lately I do,inside and outside laminations on them, like it better than just the outside. I run the factory springs until they loose some power then they get music wire, I change out the factory 4 coils with a 4 coil helper as I feel the factory coils are too much really. the replacements are spring steel have enough strength to do what is needed without over kill. All chain gets taken off along with foreign swivels replaced with USA chain and swivels. Jc Conner shock springs and a chestnut ring. factory pans go away and they get PIT pans and rod dogs welded on not issues with dogs bent or pans damaged. tack weld spring pins I place and done.
I have more into them but they last,hold well and make a outstanding predator trap. Coyotes work traps,coons not so much I have duke 1.5 traps they work well, so do the 110 muskrat traps, but any larger kill types I buy Bridgers and like the 660 super bears as well.
each species I put a value on and relate that to trap choice and what works and last for me.
Each to his own but don't be afraid to try other brands......
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Post by login on Nov 14, 2014 10:41:37 GMT -6
I haven't bought a trap yet that I felt that "didn't" need modified some way or another, even the coni's.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2014 10:43:20 GMT -6
Sorry john but I call BS. .sad to say but I done it back in the day with some victors and northwoods .in the same pot . Was using coak for the fire.
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Post by bigjohn on Nov 14, 2014 12:02:15 GMT -6
Basic science ,can't be done as long as there is water in the pot. Don't believe me? Take a paper cup full of water and place it over a flame. As long as there is water in that cup,it cannot burn. The heat is directed away from the bottom by the water.A paper cup itself will burn at a lower temp than what it takes to heat springs hot enough to harm them. Don't take my word for it,try it.
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Post by coonsnagger on Nov 14, 2014 22:38:59 GMT -6
Well as it was mentioned earlier I can tell after half a season they were weakening. I've decided to stick with Duke dps and duke 1.5s and even the Duke 110s but above that will be a no go for me. Mb550s all the way. But for cost saving I held a 20+ year old Bridger still in great shape and springs strong as ever. That's the cheapest I'll ever go again on yote.
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Post by tjm on Nov 17, 2014 18:46:07 GMT -6
wow!
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Post by login on Nov 17, 2014 19:38:23 GMT -6
Bet that bridger had music wire on.
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Post by robertw on Nov 17, 2014 21:34:12 GMT -6
The original Bridgers were Montgomery copies or Montgomery traps with Bridger pans.
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Post by pops on Nov 18, 2014 8:30:30 GMT -6
Bet that bridger had music wire on. Bought some Bridger 1.75's this fall, they come with music wire springs and night latched right outta the box now. |
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Post by adccoyote on Nov 18, 2014 20:59:22 GMT -6
Bridgers are the best bang for the buck for any mass produced factory trap IMO. The 2,3 sized traps all come base plated and the chain is better so are the swivels but it still gets replaced with USA made hardware do it once and they are done. ......
I buy the 3 offsets 4 coiled and double laminate them and add PIT pans and I have a super coyote and cat trap. With the thick jaw and 4 coils they make a very comfortable trap on coyotes.
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Post by robertw on Nov 18, 2014 21:17:25 GMT -6
Oh BS!!Why not buy a quality Victor trap made in the USA that has some craftmanship and comes with American made chain?
Square jawed laminated traps simply can not bust cover or mud and function comparably to a round jawed trap!
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Post by adccoyote on Nov 19, 2014 5:53:54 GMT -6
Robert I have seen some of the so called American made traps spot welded frames and all. better metal yes tougher? No.
The difference in a well tuned sq jaw or round jaw is very minimal in fact so little difference when 4 coiled that it would make zero difference in catch rate. I have had no problems with the bridgers busting through cover what so ever. That includes laminating to a jaw thickness of 5/8 of an inch. I ran coyote cuffs for a period of years and again no issue with mud or cover busting and these had cast jaws. Supply ample power and have a good jaw with a good offset and you have a great canine trap. I was never a fan of the oval shaped design of the victor 3 's.
The bridgers with the pit pans and 4 coiled are a super tough trap to beat with the rod dogs on them tack welded shut.
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Post by robertw on Nov 19, 2014 14:43:37 GMT -6
Lay some money on tbe table ($1500 for two days) and I will educate you differntly. Don't have time right now to explain to you how round jawed traps function more reliably than swuare jawed ones...they just do.
As for your laminations, they'll cost you more fur thsn you can ever imagine. Greatly reduces the traps ability to function.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2014 15:37:38 GMT -6
Sorry John ,but I was not boiling cups or burning them sorry john I call bull ship
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Post by bverboy on Nov 19, 2014 17:12:59 GMT -6
 caught in a #3 duke by waddell |
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Post by bigjohn on Nov 19, 2014 17:30:11 GMT -6
Sorry John ,but I was not boiling cups or burning them sorry john I call bull ship Call it what you want Ray,but the science shows you wrong. |
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Goodbye 2020