This Is For KRANK

[ozarkmountainman]

I hate the new stuff. Big secret. I have NOT been shooting, but I'm THINKING about it...

Dale

[bigbob]

YEEEEOOOOOWWWCH!!!!!

[ozarkmountainman]

Dale

[krank]

How far?

[ozarkmountainman]

15- 18 yards. My first time "aiming". It's just weird- I did a YT video on it yesterday.

I shot a little while ago. I'm going to have to settle on one bow/arrow combo obviously. Yesterday I took FOUR of them, today, just two.

Dale

[krank]

I am shooting 20 yards and hitting a beer can 8 out of 9 times. Thats after shooting all summer. Broadheads discouraged me so much I went back to target arrows while I am figuring it out. 25 yards and I yaw out a little to 4 inch groups. A big break through was when I started canting. Whenever I get wrist slap then I know my brace was lax.
I wish I could find the ultimate bow and arrow combo and stay with it. Been using the right spine for my bow weight.
Meanwhile I just keep zinging arrows trying to build muscle in the right place.
Actually the best shooting arrow in my 45# is a 2018 GG aluminum.
I have some nice cedar arrows that I am holding back on using until I get this all hashed out.
I have a dozen carbon arrows that I have been punishing.
I need to build me a nice leather back quiver. I have several hip quivers and a not so nice back quiver.
Been using a tab and a glove with no preference between the two.
If I keep at it then I will be as good as I was 30 years ago.

[ozarkmountainman]

Your broadheads don't hit where your field points do? Is that what you're saying?

Dale

[krank]

Correct. I have never had a broadhead hit the same as a field tip.

[ozarkmountainman]

Man bud, that really shouldn't be... Have you ever bare-shaft tested?

Arrow spine is #1. If you're improper on spine you will not get the PERFECT arrow flight for broadheads to behave themselves. Everything is magnified.

STRAIGHT shafts. If you're shooting carbons it shouldn't be an issue.

Arrow rest issues- Oh yeah, seem that a hundred (five hundred?) times. I prefer off the shelf, but many shelves are not designed properly with MINIMAL surface arrow for the arrow to come in contact with. If you can stand one (and I sometimes do) a glue-on elevated rest may be best.

String tweaking with proper/improved brace height.

Your release and basic shooting mechanics. The ONLY way you can get consistent. Film yourself, and you will come away a little queasy in the stomach. Sad, but true.

And this will sound silly, but it could be the broadhead itself. Are they straight in relation to the shaft. Oh boy, seen that one a bunch too, the broadhead doesn't square up. You can't skip a curved rock, either.

Finally, FOC weight. This sounds modern and mechanized, but Native Americans understood. The heavier your FOC (within reason) the better that arrow will fly, the quicker it will recover from paradox, plus you benefit from down range penetration.

Look at me. I wrote a story.

Dale

[segsarge]

I use Montec G5's, They fly just like field points. I had the same problem grouping broadheads until switched. Plus you can resharpen them if they get dull.

[Walleye Joe]

I tried the G5's years ago. I liked them but they just didn't work for me or my setup. I switched to Slick Tricks and loved them. Best fixed bh's I'd ever used. Killed many deer with them. After a while I fell for the mechanicals and had good luck with the NAP Spitfires. Took several deer and turkeys with them. I resisted the "rage" with the Rage 2 blade for a long time but I like them a lot!! Kinda pricey, but they're super effective and I've been able to reuse them a couple of times.

[krank]

I am using Muzzy on cedar and wasp on aluminum.
I don't like vaned arrows and most of mine are fletched.
I shoot off the shelf with a fuzzy patch. Canting really changed my windage problem.
I know I need to get out all my broadheads and see who behaves the best.

[ozarkmountainman]

We (trad guys) aren't going to use mechanical heads. I hope... Those G5's are good little heads, but not enough weight for a stick bow. I shoot a 1-1/2" wide Ace head that weighs 190 grains on a wood shaft. Total arrow weight 650-780 grains depending which shaft I shoot (and I've shot heavier). Heavy is CRITICAL for this kind of archery.

Mike, you have no FOC weight and that's probably your issue. You're shooting wheelie bow arrows. You need at minimum some of those heavy-weight inserts (75-125 grains extra) And no, vanes will not work on a stickbow either. We need that "give".

This ain't rocket science. The technology is a thousand years old, we've just had to remember and re-invent it.

Oh yeah- you need to get away from those compound broadheads too, at least if you're planning on shooting a deer. At your lighter poundage, and with possible bad arrow flight, your arrows in the configuration that you shoot now will actually just bounce off a whitetail. Just fact.

Those Wasps are great heads. For a compound. But those Muzzys? They have a serious amount of energy-robbing point to get past before they start the actual cutting. They are the LOUDEST point in the world when they hit a deer. Ker-PLUNK is what they do, freaking the deer out bad. THEY WILL NOT WORK IN YOUR BOW, especially with lighter weight.

You need, as do all trad shooters, a cut-on-contact point. A SHARP one at that. The G5 is one, kind of. But you ALSO need something closer to that 3:1 length-to-width ratio also. It's just science... You ain't shooting a 300 fps bow with training wheels.

So, unlimber your wallet at 3 Rivers. Get a Steelforce head (or something like it). Get at least a 125 grain head, then buy some of those weighted steel inserts. GET SOME FOC WEIGHT. And then after you get your tune figured out, and your shooting mechanics, you'll see way better arrow flight. Slower, but better. And then if you get to put an arrow in a deer at TWENTY YARDS OR LESS you'll get penetration, and that's what we're "shooting" for.

I've done this my whole life, including from the compound side and setting up countless bows while at Laurie Marine. I even shot heavy arrows the few times I hunted with a compound 'cuz it just makes sense. Getting discouraged over bad bow issues takes the fun out of the whole process. And going to the woods lacking in confidence won't help anything wither.

Buy some stuff and get better.

Dale

[krank]

REally would like to find something I have that works.

[ozarkmountainman]

Okay, so those are not Wasps or Muzzys. Get some more weight behind them (and your field points). Then go from there.

Dale

[krank]

The winner today is the one on the left. Its a 125 gr Magness with a 30" 2117 GG. Weighes 550 grains. Second runner up is second from the left. It is a 99 cent chinese broadhead that is scary sharp glued to a 45-50 #spine cedar coming in a 540gr. Two on the right fell less than 425 grains.
I am shooting a 50# bow and I feel the arrows are barely stiff enough. Rather than change arrows, I will drop to 45# which is what I used for 20 years.
I do have a bunch of carbon arrows that have vanes and 100 gr broadheads but I think thats kinda gay. THey are for those new short draw bows that are stupid fast.
I gotta laugh because I have a 40 year old split limb compound that has a 10yd and 20 yd and 30 yd pin and I can pick that up and go zoom zoom. ITs just not where I want to be.

[krank]

The two on the right are a bodkin and a zwickey (not muzzy) Too light on cedar.
I do have some arrows that are not matched but they are made of pakka wood. They might go 650. I got them from some derelict.

[segsarge]

I haven't shot a trad bow in decades. Had an old Herters recurve that I got when I was about 14 years old. Hunted with it for several years until I bought a Darton brand compound. (seemed like a good idea at the time) Ended up giving the Herters to a friend of mine. Wish I had the bow back now. Bowhunting is out for me this year. Maybe next year.

















i

[krank]

I rarely go bow hunting but I shoot archery all the time.
I have all these pretty cedar arrows and they weigh about 350 grains.
Looks like the arrows over 500 handle a broadhead better than the less than 500 grain arrows.
I am getting tired of running up and down basement stairs everytime I want something. Maybe I will just build a small shed outside? Great thought but I like the temperature in my humidity controlled basement.

[ozarkmountainman]

Forget about total weight. It's about how much weight is FORWARD OF CENTER. THAT is the key to good arrow flight. I can shoot my broadheads with no fletching at all and they will fly PERFECT. If tuned to a particular bow. And spined correctly. And I do my part. And...

Those light carbons with light broadheads are worthless in any stickbow over maybe 30 pounds. Just junk.

Dale