Gonna start finishing my own fur

[Walleye Joe]

....and I need to know what size fleshing knife to start out with. Went through the archives and found lots of stuff about brands everyone prefers, but not what size. 

Oh, BTW, I tried the Search feature and it's worthless.

I'm going to make my own fleshing board.  And make my own stretchers/boards after I order one as a pattern. Any other help would be much appreciated!

[tryinhard]

I use a Necker. Some don't like it. Works for me!

[trapper340]

I used the necker this year and it work great for me .

[Walleye Joe]

Okay, okay. Maybe I should have posted a poll for what brand! 

What I'd really like to know is what size blade. You know, 12", 16", etc.  Or should I just buy this! $49.85 at Minnesota Trapline:


www.minntrapprod.com/images/proknives.jpg
Used by professionals and amateurs alike. #1 Pro Fleshing Knife - 8" X 1" one-piece steel blade. (mink, muskrat) #2 Pro Fleshing Knife - 12" X 1½" one-piece steel blade. (coyote, coon) #3 Pro Fleshing Knife - 16" X 2" one-piece steel blade. (large raccoon) ***SPECIAL*** Pro Fleshing Knife Set Set of all 3 Professional knives.

[bigjohn]

I used a cheap 12 fleshing tool for years and still use it on cats.It fits my fleshing board alot better than my necker.Whatever knife you start with,if you use it very long,will be easier to learn with than changing to several different ones.The cheap ones have carbon blade,which is easier to sharpen,but don't hold an edge as long as the stainless ones.If you could try several yourself,you'll find one you like best.I've heard good things about the Post fleshing knife.

[tenman]

I used on of those knives pictured above they are a good cheap dull knife. But doing the neck area on coons and otter you also will need a sharp knife. I just got a green English knife. I've watched Jim use it for two years now at Laurie he loves it. I got the shorter one because I use an old barn oak 2x6 as a beam.

[Deleted]

I have a knife I got at hinklemiers in a town 30 min from Jeff city, it is awesome for me, I tryed several other knives and did not like them, I deffinatly do not like the necker, I think my knife is 12'' long I use it for every thing, and I use the dull thick edge for opossum.

[64bobcat]

I also use a homemade knife,got it from a man that taught me alot about fur put up...... bought the necker and hate it
just use old realiable on everything !!!!

[jimhoman]

their is a lot of good knives out their and a lot more bad knives. my first knife was hominid out of 1 in angle iron with two paces pipe welded in for handles sharp one side used for several years still pick it up . my beam was 1/2 log slab.. about 8 in. got a Necker don't like it . got the blue about three years now and I like it. be for you buy try out different knives and beams get the one that fits you or you will never be happy if your at one of my demos you can try mine pm me your address and I will send you one of fur harvesters books of how to make your boards they are close to nifty size. Thanks Jim

[bverboy]

the first hide I ever scraped was a bvr. I figured if I could do bvr I could do them all. bought a necker 700 and still using it. it works for me and fits my beam....

[krank]

For 20 years I used a dull $10 knife for my deerhides. I have just recently played with a sharp knife. Definetley "live without a net" and "substantual penalty for early withdrawel". You can really ruin a hide in the blink of an eye.
I suggest you just get a dull knife for starters and use a hunting knife for neck gristle. See about a razor sharp later. Biggest challenge starting out is boards! You need to find the right width and plane them down to 1/2". They cost about $8 plus freight. If you buy the lumber you can make them for less than half that. You do not need to buy one for patterns as NAFA and Fur Harvesters both provide regulation measurements.

[krank]

Remember on your wood that you want it soft to push tacks into. I dont think oak would be good. I use pine but the best is basswood. I see alot of wire stretchers go cheap. They are ok if you add a plywood insert near the square end to staple to.
There are alot of opinions on vertical vs horizontal fleshing beams also. I alway used the old horizontal beam and have a bad back to prove it. I really like the Blue English that Jim is talking about and I started using it last year. Saves alot of space too.

[bigjohn]

It's good to see so many folks putting up their fur.It gives the advantage of being ready to sell without having to wait for it to thaw.It also gives one the advantage of saying no to a buyer and waiting to sell at another time,without having to worry about slippage.Gives one the option of sending it off,selling it at a MTA auction,keeping it to have tanned and selling the tanned goods,just alot more options to market your stuff.

[krank]

A hundred years ago, all trappers finished fur because there wasnt any deep freezers. When my day was a kid you took the whole critter to the grocery store with the trap still on its foot and the owner traded right there. As kids, we put up fur and did a lousey job and the buyer said he would give us more if we froze them but Momma didnt allow that crap in the deepfreezer.
For 20 years, I sold green to the country buyer and was happy.(dumb and happy)
I just started putting up fur again a couple years ago. I had always scraped hides for tanning but they go from the beam to the tanning solution.
I enjoy boarding up fur in the shop with my radio and beer and my wife in the house cooking supper. I am mediocre at best and always watching what others do in hopes of learning something new. I am trying to figure out Nafas game as there is some things they dont care about and other things that disturb them.

[Walleye Joe]

tryinhard, trapper340, bigjohn, tenman, Durham, grumpy, 64bobcat, jimhoman, bverboy, and krank!

Thanks for the replies! 
From the comments I understand that:

-Use what fits ya!
-Start slow and easy with a 'dull' knife.
-Carbon steel=easy sharpening, dulls quickly.
-Stainless steel=more difficult to sharpen, holds an edge longer.
-Ease into the sharp knives for the neck areas. 
-Size blade depends mostly on beam width.
-Use soft wood for boards.
-Horizontal beams are back-breakers!
-If all else fails, let Durham do it for ya! 

[jimhoman]

first time fleshing don' use good pelt and get a brush and brush brush brush that is wear you will mess-up not getting burs out and mud weed seeds and you will cut hide I still do take it slow speed will come with a couple thousand pelts.

[Walleye Joe]

Jun 30, 2013 11:16:36 GMT -6 jimhoman said:

first time fleshing don' use good pelt and get a brush and brush brush brush that is wear you will mess-up not getting burs out and mud weed seeds and you will cut hide I still do take it slow speed will come with a couple thousand pelts.

I always brush them out before skinning....when I remember! Always after for sure.

A couple thousand??? Dadgummit, I started trapping way too late! 

[krank]

Good point Jim.....Brush it out first. I use a curry comb.

[bverboy]

it all starts with the skinning. money cut, debone tail, cut the ears and eyes right, and don't leave cartilage in the nose. this all helps the looks of the finished product

[64bobcat]

X2 on that Bverboy, the better and cleaner u skin the animal the less time on the beam u have to spin