jerry
Junior Member
Posts: 54
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MB 550
Oct 21, 2019 8:35:05 GMT -6
Post by jerry on Oct 21, 2019 8:35:05 GMT -6
Well.....
"At this time, there is a struggle sourcing suitable domestic made jaws whether it be quality, cost, or production time. For the time being Minnesota Trapline does not have any 550 traps cast jaw traps available. We hope for good news next week."
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Post by Walleye Joe on Oct 21, 2019 10:53:29 GMT -6
I looked at the Duke 550's at the National Convention in July. I wouldn't be afraid to give them a shot. Less expensive too!
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Post by bigjohn on Oct 21, 2019 11:33:56 GMT -6
I think the Bridger #2 would be a better bang for your buck IMO.
Then again I'm not a fan of the MB 550.
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jerry
Junior Member
Posts: 54
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MB 550
Oct 21, 2019 15:11:58 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by jerry on Oct 21, 2019 15:11:58 GMT -6
I think the Bridger #2 would be a better bang for your buck IMO. Then again I'm not a fan of the MB 550. Know that you're not... How's the 4 spring different from the other?
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Post by bigjohn on Oct 21, 2019 17:03:07 GMT -6
All the MB traps have long spring pins that a person could 4 col themselves, same as the bridgers. The 4 coil allows the trap to bust thru cover a little better.
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jerry
Junior Member
Posts: 54
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MB 550
Oct 22, 2019 6:59:42 GMT -6
Post by jerry on Oct 22, 2019 6:59:42 GMT -6
Looks like the Bridger has a little more target area than Duke but are a little more. Do offsets really make a difference if you catch someones dog?
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MB 550
Oct 22, 2019 7:07:51 GMT -6
Post by krank on Oct 22, 2019 7:07:51 GMT -6
I have never caught or set an MB 550. Just had to get that off my chest. I own a couple but never set them. I got bridgers and dukes and old victors and a couple monties.
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Post by Walleye Joe on Oct 22, 2019 8:16:55 GMT -6
Looks like the Bridger has a little more target area than Duke but are a little more. Do offsets really make a difference if you catch someones dog? I use about 75% #2 Dogless OS bridgers. I just prefer the square jaws. I have a few MB 550's but didn't like the way they bedded so I quit using them for a few years. I've adopted a new bedding procedure where I dig out a wider, deeper bed so that the trap is mostly just resting on the jaws. MB's now bed just fine and I like them now. I've seen much less ankle/paw damage with off-sets compared to closed-jaw traps. If the dog is not pissed I'll generally massage the foot for a minute or so then set it on its way. I've caught more than I care to admit and I've never had one with cut up skin or broken bones. If you're trying to decide whether or not to get off-sets, I'd recommend off-sets! JMHO.
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Post by bigjohn on Oct 22, 2019 15:00:02 GMT -6
The main advantage of the offset is the levers come up more when closed on an animals foot. Myself, I see more foot damage on wild k-9s with the offset. It allows a back and forth movement that wears on the foot more than the closed jaws. Folks that trapped wolves for study then released ,found toothed jaw traps(nubs not pointed saw type teeth) had less damage as it stopped the back and forth movement in the trap. A short chained trap will lessen damage as the animal can't lunge as far. This also lessens shoulder damage as well.
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MB 550
Oct 22, 2019 22:07:17 GMT -6
Post by tjm on Oct 22, 2019 22:07:17 GMT -6
The main advantage of the offset is the levers come up more when closed on an animals foot. Myself, I see more foot damage on wild k-9s with the offset. It allows a back and forth movement that wears on the foot more than the closed jaws. Folks that trapped wolves for study then released ,found toothed jaw traps(nubs not pointed saw type teeth) had less damage as it stopped the back and forth movement in the trap. A short chained trap will lessen damage as the animal can't lunge as far. This also lessens shoulder damage as well. Fully agree ^^^ If you want the levers to go up higher either design the ramps that way or modify the ramps so that there is flatter spot for the lockup to happen. If you need an offset to meet a law; ring one jaw with wire- it will be open when the jaws are closed empty, hence offset and still close tight on the foot preventing slip. fwiw, I have turned a few domestics loose myself and the border collie I used to have got caught probably 15 times, two or three times each season before his memory kicked in. If you are going to turn a lot of them loose I recommend a piece of plywood with a notch and hand loops. Maybe a big bin to put over the animal. On the traps, I don't think four coils are ever necessary unless it's wire lever- I like wire levers on coyote traps. I'd buy Duke's traps before I would Caven's just because of the way Cavens have described stuff in their catalog. I have lots more traps than I'll ever use again probably, so, not out to buy any; but the few Duke traps I've used were pretty good stuff. I like the Victor Montgomery because of the dogless design. If I wanted a better trap, I'd jump to SVS or Jake Traps, maybe Coyote Cuffs. # size of trap is BS, there is no standard, get traps with about 5-5.5" or bigger inside spread- MB550s have the nearly same inside spread as my old Victor 1 1/2s, the 5 1/2" is outside where it don't matter much. +/- an pencil mark. imo, a Victor #2 or #3 is a better trap. Surely there are trainloads of good used traps for sale?
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MB 550
Oct 23, 2019 8:05:39 GMT -6
Post by krank on Oct 23, 2019 8:05:39 GMT -6
I knew a guy that sweared by offsets for coons. His claim was that they kept foot from numbing and resulting wring off. That was back in the 80s before the DP craze. Ray gave me some Bridgers at his fish fry. They were predator ready right out of the box. I have taken Dukes and lammed the jaws and baseplated and rechained with swivels and made a decent trap out of them. Todays trapper has several choices. "Hop-up" your own traps or pay the big bucks for a deluxe trap. There are a few mid-economy traps out there that require minimal work. Like them bridgers just needed night latching. Attachment Deleted
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MB 550
Oct 23, 2019 14:21:47 GMT -6
Post by tjm on Oct 23, 2019 14:21:47 GMT -6
Nothing needs night latching except the out house door. The first Duke I ever set was a 1 1/2 that was given to a grandson, we set that right out of the box and 2 days later had a red, I reset it in the trash pile and next day had a coyote, probably only held that coyote because the factory grease kept him there. There are ten jillion ways to complicate trapping and fancy "improvements" are among those. Trap modification for the sake of trap modification makes a great hobby unto itself but every trap I'm familiar with will work as manufactured, barring slight tuneup. Bridgers are still import junk sold by the "Made in USA" fibbers, no thank you.
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MB 550
Oct 23, 2019 15:03:40 GMT -6
Post by krank on Oct 23, 2019 15:03:40 GMT -6
I threw that night latch in just for you, Trevis. Its so easy to do, all my land traps are night latched. First thing I can't stand to see is "swingset chain". It has got to go. Only allowed on conibears. Dukes have sharp jaws from the brake press operation so I file them smooth. I had a Federal employee call me and say he wanted our equipment to be 100% USA made. I said no problem. He introjected that all the metal must me of USA origin. I told him only a fool would promise that. Here is a picture of the crappiest trap on earth. Its an old victor with the reverse jaws. Guaranteed pop out. Attachment Deleted
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MB 550
Oct 23, 2019 19:12:55 GMT -6
Post by bigjohn on Oct 23, 2019 19:12:55 GMT -6
Night latching a trap allows the same trigger position every time even in low light. It also allows one to use a little heavier pan tension keeping rabbits ,possums, and such from getting caught.
Extra swivels (minimum of 3 ) keeps chains from binding up in trash. The swing set chain also creates a binding action. Coyotes can even break the stuff if in a weakened state.
Dog on traps will have the dogs bent up by coyotes but can be straightened fairly easy, just a pain in the a$$. A dog replaced with a Bob Custer dog will never get bent, making life a little easier
Bending the jaw tips up or welding a bubble on them will help insure the won't get popped out. Base plate also helps this from happening.
These are about the only mods I do to traps.
Krank is right about sharp edges. Even the bridgers have edges that need smoothed out. The old Montgomery step-ins and Northwoods had thicker jaws that had no sharp edges.
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MB 550
Oct 23, 2019 20:16:26 GMT -6
Post by tjm on Oct 23, 2019 20:16:26 GMT -6
I always carry a light. Lots of things are better done with light on setting traps might be one of those.
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jerry
Junior Member
Posts: 54
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MB 550
Oct 24, 2019 6:20:54 GMT -6
Post by jerry on Oct 24, 2019 6:20:54 GMT -6
Since nowadays I have my cellular phone 24/7 I always have a light
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Post by krank on Oct 24, 2019 8:26:12 GMT -6
Some years I have trapped and never saw daylight. I was out at 5 am with a headlight and in the shed at 6pm with a lightbulb. Real exciting walking through chest high weeds in the dark knowing there was a catch underfoot somewhere.
Old timers didn't do nothing with traps. They just used them. I get a kick out of all the uses for baling wire on traps. If I get an old trap with wire wrapped around the jaws then I just leave it and hang it on the wall. Same goes for all those old dog and pan repairs. The trap isn't fit for use and hang it on the wall to tell a story.
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Post by mryoungtrapper on Nov 9, 2019 5:44:49 GMT -6
We got both the MB 550 and Duke ones this year. Gonna use and compare them.
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