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Post by tryinhard on Aug 7, 2014 20:37:28 GMT -6
I got my drags from MTP today. The last piece is here! I've got a date with 6 MB550s this weekend. Planning to add 8 feet of chain and drags. Should I take my angle grinder and sharpen the points of the drags? They are sheared off and pretty sharp but if you look at the Wolf Fang they have a really sharp point on them. Just don't want to have any search issues with these. Also what is the best way to store the trap and drag and have minimal tangles?
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Aug 8, 2014 6:40:08 GMT -6
No search issues? Go with more chain...
Dale
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Post by tryinhard on Aug 8, 2014 9:01:14 GMT -6
I don't want to have to spend 30 minutes looking for a caught animal.
What would I really gain by having 2 or 4 more feet of chain?
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Aug 8, 2014 13:39:25 GMT -6
Everything. Ten feet minimum. I'd go twelve.
Try it yourself- rig 'em up short and long, hold the trap at knee level, and take off. When the anchor sticks pull pretty hard, then change directions some (in my experience animals on drags almost never return the way they were caught. Bad juju just happened there...) and pull again. You'll see which one works best for you pretty quickly.
Since I generally use drags on 'cats (with the fox and 'coon that of course wade in to the same sets) or in places an earth-anchor just won't do, I'll many times hang the drag in a bush or over a low-hanging limb or throw it over a log, cutting down the "drag time" to almost nothing. I NEVER have an animal pull a drag more than a few yards. Sometimes they get a little "vertical", however...
It's all about what you want the drag to do- what's its purpose? For me it's about getting the critter out-of-sight from bad people.
I never intentionally use a drag for 'yotes. Too many bad things can happen. I use slide-wires on those two-tracks where the critter is visible from the road. You pinch the 'dog, he slides off into the grass, and there he waits for you.
Dale
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Post by tenman on Aug 8, 2014 15:24:31 GMT -6
How about showing us this slide wire at trappers weekend?
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Aug 8, 2014 15:43:29 GMT -6
If you'll hold me up.
Dale
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Post by tenman on Aug 8, 2014 16:12:30 GMT -6
If you'll hold me up. Dale Stay out of the shine and I won't have to.
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Aug 8, 2014 17:44:39 GMT -6
My last hoo-rah, so whatever you want. Not touchin' the 'shine, not in THIS lifetime.
Dale
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Post by krank on Aug 8, 2014 18:16:58 GMT -6
Your missing out....
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Post by tryinhard on Aug 8, 2014 19:43:07 GMT -6
Ok. So I set one up. Drag, swivel, 4 ft of chain, swivel, 4 ft more chain. I laid it out on the grass and the "sheared" point caught then plugged with grass and the drag slid over the top of the grass. My question is, if I take my angle grinder and smooth and sharpen the point will it help or will it do the same, in your opinion? My hope is to have the point pierce through the sod and dig into the soil underneath.
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Post by jiml on Aug 8, 2014 20:17:01 GMT -6
Try twisting your points in opposite directions so the drag doesn't lay flat. You can shove one tine into the sod and it's already stuck. You might have to add some weight, how heavy are they. A flat 2 pronged hook can drag and bounce a long way without leaving much sign in the wrong area.
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Aug 9, 2014 18:30:12 GMT -6
And if you think this thing is going to hang up in YARD you're fooling yourself. Not going to stick in dirt for any amount of time anyway. Ain't gonna happen. At all. Get in some brush and do a real test so you know.
And like jiml says, all my drags have offset points. The sharpness makes NO difference.
Dale
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Post by tryinhard on Aug 9, 2014 19:54:06 GMT -6
And if you think this thing is going to hang up in YARD you're fooling yourself. Not going to stick in dirt for any amount of time anyway. Ain't gonna happen. At all. Get in some brush and do a real test so you know. And like jiml says, all my drags have offset points. The sharpness makes NO difference. Dale Before with "sheared" point. Grass would ball up on the "point" and it would just slide not even attempting to dig in. After. Smoothed the rebar ridges and made a sharp point on it. Works much better. I laid it on the grass and pulled at knee height and it locked me up within 5 feet. Much happier with the results.
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Aug 10, 2014 10:07:05 GMT -6
It will not "lock up" with a live animal!
Dale
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Post by krank on Aug 10, 2014 12:36:11 GMT -6
I think an 8x8x16 cinder block makes a good cubby set/drag.....I throw them out in spots in the summer. Coon sets mind you....
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Post by tryinhard on Aug 10, 2014 15:35:28 GMT -6
It will not "lock up" with a live animal! Dale But Dale! Haven't you seen the video of Locklear and the wolf fang anchor? Locked up! (Smile Dale, I'm having a little fun with ya) I'll know more once trapping season gets here and I can try them out.
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Aug 10, 2014 17:03:41 GMT -6
No, but I saw the stupid-ass video where they follow a coyote on a drag for what seems like forever only to find it had left a toe in a trap. Stupid crap, and why I don't watch all these "pros" and their videos.
Dale
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Post by charlie75 on Sept 27, 2014 20:55:34 GMT -6
When you guys make this set with 10-12 feet of chain and the drag do you bury all that in the hole under your trap?
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Sept 27, 2014 22:19:30 GMT -6
I don't. But I generally (almost never) use a drag on coyote.
Dale
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Post by joetofeldonmo on Oct 1, 2014 21:03:37 GMT -6
Drags is fer cats in the brush just throw it over a low branch or in a brush tangle.nuff said.
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