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Post by tryinhard on Jul 6, 2013 23:23:00 GMT -6
I have this piece of oak I was planning to make a beam out of. It's a full 2" by 8". My plan was to sand it down with a slight curve to fit my knife and just lay the fur on top of it to flesh. I decided today I needed to get it done. First thing I noticed was the quarter inch cup on the side I was going to use. No problem I thought, I'll just flip it over and use that to my advantage. When I turned it over I discovered eighth inch lines across the entire lenghth of the board. Don't know if I should spend the time to sand them out or just buy a beam...
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2013 0:25:28 GMT -6
Sand it down, and coat it with pure Lin seed oil. Then let it sit a week and look at it again.
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Post by bigjohn on Jul 7, 2013 4:49:25 GMT -6
Your going to have to use something other than a sander to get your shape.Trying to sand the shape into it would take forever.Use a draw knife or large plain to shape it,then do your sanding,The 1/4 inch cup should be done away with as the edges will be taken off with the shaping.
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Post by krank on Jul 7, 2013 7:14:13 GMT -6
I started an oak beam over a year ago. Still working on it. I have used a chainsaw and a skilsaw and a disc grinder and a belt sander and stopped the madness. Went back again with a hoof rasp and a drawknife and now its coming along better. Got a ways to go. No hurry as I dont need it. Just wanted to do it.
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Post by tryinhard on Jul 13, 2013 14:15:17 GMT -6
Well I went and bought a belt sander. Now I'm rethinking my original plan and would like your input. I sanded it down and have a nice board like this.  It has a nice rounded top that fits my necker nicely.  What I'm concerned about is how well I'll like laying the pelt over the end and scraping vs sliding the pelt over the end so the nose area holds it in place. Anyone with experience want to chime in? As it sits now I can oil it and put it on the wall, or I can saw out the shape and thin it down to slide pelts over. Brian |
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Post by tcrooks on Jul 13, 2013 15:29:03 GMT -6
Brian , Me and Silverfox both do it the same way. We just lay it over the beam and flesh. It takes a little getting use to , but after you do you won't want to go back to doing it the other way. I would still put a slight point on it if you can. You will still have to "pinch the hide between you and the board when fleshing and the point does help some.
When doing it this way if you happen to miss any dirt , burr , etc. when cleaning and combing before fleshing unless it's a really big piece you missed (Which you shouldn't) while fleshing the knife will slip over it and just leave a clump of fat then you just reach in and get it out and start fleshing again. If you slip the beam inside of it and hit a burr , etc. most times you will cut a hole in the hide.
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Post by tryinhard on Jul 13, 2013 15:40:21 GMT -6
Troy, I had thought of the point but I also thought about putting a screw in under the bottom. I could hook the nose on it. I also thought of putting an under cut in the front of it. I'm over thinking this I'm sure but I like to explore options.
Brian
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Post by bverboy on Jul 13, 2013 15:44:59 GMT -6
I would like to see that fleshing demo at the fall rondy
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Post by tcrooks on Jul 13, 2013 15:47:22 GMT -6
The hook in the eye hole will work. I've seen it done. I thought about it myself , but never did do it.
The one's I've seen do it put the hook in the end of the board so they could still get to most of the head and neck area.
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Post by tcrooks on Jul 13, 2013 15:50:35 GMT -6
bverboy , I don't have a clue what the demo's are for the fall rondy , but I'm sure something can be worked out.
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Post by bverboy on Jul 13, 2013 15:51:59 GMT -6
good deal thanks
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Post by bigjohn on Jul 13, 2013 16:17:35 GMT -6
Looks like it'll make doing beaver easier.I need to make me a wider one for them.
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Post by tcrooks on Jul 13, 2013 16:30:36 GMT -6
John , that's what I use the Log Beam I have for. It make's doing beaver so much faster.
I can put a big blanket beaver on it and it doesn't slip and slide off the beam.
Mine is about a 10" - 12" Dia. Log
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Post by krank on Jul 13, 2013 17:15:51 GMT -6
I like the slipover to keep the hide in place. You got be thinking about my big cowhide beam thats a split walnut log. Only trouble I see is constantly having to lean apron on hide to hold it.
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Post by tcrooks on Jul 13, 2013 17:21:02 GMT -6
Krank , I have two of them. On made of Walnut and one of Cherry. The leaning into the beam does get to you after a few thousand hides. LOL
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Post by tcrooks on Jul 13, 2013 17:38:32 GMT -6
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Post by krank on Jul 14, 2013 10:22:46 GMT -6
Dunno Troy.....Here is my split log that I made 20 years ago for cow and deer. I have done beaver on it. Have to decide if I want to try cased hides on it next year. Kinda partial to by slip-over beam for coon and yote.  |
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Post by tcrooks on Jul 14, 2013 11:47:30 GMT -6
I understand that Krank. It is about what works for one may not work for another. I do have two beams that are slip over style as well and I do use them every year also , but I keep catching myself going more and more to the log.
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Post by krank on Jul 14, 2013 14:05:26 GMT -6
Used to be a buyer in Urich and he had a log. That sucker was 2 ft round and weighed several hundred pounds. He had it split up on legs. Used to plow fat like nobodies business.
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Post by 64bobcat on Jul 14, 2013 15:50:45 GMT -6
Have you guy's ever used a beam that's not so far down in the back ? Got mine with maybe a six inch drop from front to back , much easier on my back...... But that's just me....
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