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Post by trapper660 on Jan 30, 2013 20:05:02 GMT -6
took a couple of evenings and built this im getting geared up now i just need o learn had to catch something lol
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Post by krank on Jan 30, 2013 20:10:41 GMT -6
That is super......I see that big garage and you told me you didnt have a place. You got a knife to fit that beam?
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Post by trapper660 on Jan 30, 2013 20:19:12 GMT -6
ha garage is usally full of the wifes car and other side is full of her junk.hope she doesnt read this.lol ;D no i dont have a knife yethave not decided what to get.have heard of neker 600 and another
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Post by krank on Jan 30, 2013 20:32:45 GMT -6
for years I used them cheap dull drawknives or homemades out of lawnmower blades. Nothing wrong and I still use them. You need one. I recently got a Sheffield knockoff and it is wicked. Tom olsen has a knife priced in the middle. Got three letters for a name. Curious about them. Whatever you do you need a plain old $10 drawknife around.
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Post by bobcat64 on Jan 30, 2013 20:34:19 GMT -6
IMO stick with a cheap knife first.. them neckers r hard to use, when first starting out ! by the way beam looks good.......
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Post by krank on Jan 30, 2013 20:41:16 GMT -6
Them sharp knives have a severe penalty for misjudgement. Get a dull knive and use that a year. I use my dull 75% of the time. Just push harder....
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Post by trapper660 on Jan 30, 2013 20:46:45 GMT -6
that tom olsen knife is a dull one i assume?thanks bobcat. i skinned that road kill beaver and am wanting to flesh it for practice.and my youngest want to tan his coon so i need to get a knife and tanning solution soon
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Post by krank on Jan 30, 2013 20:51:34 GMT -6
The green knife was $45 and is SHARP. The one below it is 30 years old and dull and going strong. The rest are my shanks..... Attachments:
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Post by krank on Jan 30, 2013 20:58:06 GMT -6
that tom olsen knife is a dull one i assume?thanks bobcat. i skinned that road kill beaver and am wanting to flesh it for practice.and my youngest want to tan his coon so i need to get a knife and tanning solution soon the olsen is sharp. Take that coon and throw it on the beam and flesh it with a piece of strap iron. PM me and I will tell you how to tan it.
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Post by trapper660 on Jan 30, 2013 21:09:59 GMT -6
i assume you are calling just a peice of flat strap like 1/4x2 strap iron.do i need to grind the edge down to almost a sharp edge but not enough to cut anything.
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Post by yote on Jan 30, 2013 21:13:46 GMT -6
I have a necker IT me a while to get use to it.I only use it on beaver around back area and head
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Post by login on Jan 30, 2013 21:17:38 GMT -6
That is a nice looking beam there. I think bass pro has duke fleshing knifes for like $12. That is what I been using the last 2 years, works for me.
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Post by sigpros on Jan 30, 2013 21:33:54 GMT -6
Is that a 2x10? Looks good I need to make me one
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Post by krank on Jan 30, 2013 21:43:59 GMT -6
2x8-Take down to 7" ......I have used a strap with a square edge and no radius. .....You start and grind it about 35 deg and one sided. I use a file to touch up my "dull" knives.
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Post by trapper660 on Jan 30, 2013 22:03:46 GMT -6
sigpro like krank said it is a 2x8 shaved down. i took a coon stretching board measurments and made it about a half inch narrower until you get to the widest point. i rounded it with an old hand wood plane and a belt sander.i took the edges down to about a half inch and just kinda shined up the middle.
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Post by krank on Jan 30, 2013 22:17:36 GMT -6
pvc.....cheap,fast,easy Attachments:
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Post by bigjohn on Jan 31, 2013 5:48:37 GMT -6
The main thing about a fleshing beam,is to buy/or make one to fit your fleshing knife.I've got a fleshing knife(one of the cheap ones)that works very well with my fleshing beam.My beam is a 6 incher,but is a pain in the butt to flesh beaver on.The 6 inches is just too narrow for them IMO.I bit the bullet and bought a necker 600 and it doesn't really work too good with this beam.Looks like I'm going to have to make a new one for the beaver,that'll fit this knife better.
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Post by beaverking on Jan 31, 2013 9:17:30 GMT -6
The green knife was $45 and is SHARP. The one below it is 30 years old and dull and going strong. The rest are my shanks..... The green knife in pic I just bought from kaatz bro. like it more than my dull knife. I think you will find if you lean your beam up against wall you can get the job done faster and not have back ache later. That is the way the blue english works
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Post by beaverking on Jan 31, 2013 9:21:35 GMT -6
The main thing about a fleshing beam,is to buy/or make one to fit your fleshing knife.I've got a fleshing knife(one of the cheap ones)that works very well with my fleshing beam.My beam is a 6 incher,but is a pain in the butt to flesh beaver on.The 6 inches is just too narrow for them IMO.I bit the bullet and bought a necker 600 and it doesn't really work too good with this beam.Looks like I'm going to have to make a new one for the beaver,that'll fit this knife better. I am not a pro by all means just started this year i use my small beam to do legs of beaver then I have 4' pcs of 10" sdr35 pipe that I cut into a beam shape ti finish it works for me so far.
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Post by muskratmc on Jan 31, 2013 10:26:13 GMT -6
I bought a necker 600 it is a good knife to me but If i had to do it over I would buy a cheap $12 knife and just sharpen it . I have one cheap knife that I use on muskrats that I keep dull should have just bought another to sharpen and saved $48 to spend on traps.
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